TUYÊN QUANG — "When you visit my Tuyên Quang, I will take you to Khuối Nhi, one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Northwest, and also bring you to our large field of pears that you can pick until you are tired."
That was the welcoming promise made by travel influencer and TikToker Anna Luyện when we first met at a regional
tourism conference. Although our paths ultimately did not cross when I traveled to northern Tuyên Quang Province last month, her enthusiastic recommendation lingered in my mind. Inspired by her words, I decided to set aside half a day of my itinerary to explore the vast expanse of the Na Hang-Lâm Bình ecological lake, a magnificent reservoir formed at the confluence of the Gâm and Năng rivers.
This aquatic expanse serves as the gateway to Khuối Nhi, a majestic multi-tiered natural waterfall tucked deep within the forested hills of Thượng Lâm Commune, formerly part of Lâm Bình District. Beyond offering a much-needed respite from the sweltering heat of summer, the destination delivers a uniquely whimsical natural phenomenon: a living "fish spa" where hundreds of tiny aquatic creatures gather to swim around visitors’ feet.
Reaching this hidden cascade requires an intentional journey, as Khuối Nhi is accessible only by boat across the wide, calm waters of the Na Hang reservoir. Stepping aboard a local vessel, we began a gentle, hour-long cruise across the glassy water, winding our way between towering limestone karst cliffs. Sitting quietly on the deck, I admired the lush, unbroken green of the mountains mirrored perfectly on the surface of the lake, while breathing in the cool, crisp mountain air. Closing my eyes, I felt the soft breeze brush against my face, and a profound sense of tranquility washed over me, instantly melting away the lingering stresses of hectic urban life.
Surrounded by such breathtaking and untouched natural scenery, capturing photographs felt like an essential way to preserve those fleeting moments as lasting memories. Each frame captured not only the sweeping landscape but also a personal connection with the natural environment, offering a glimpse of a serene world far removed from the concrete jungle.
Local folklore adds a layer of romantic melancholy to the destination’s striking scenery. Legend has it that Khuối Nhi traces its origins to a tragic tale of young lovers who were separated and unable to be together. When the young woman became lost while searching desperately for her companion, her overwhelming grief transformed her spirit into the flowing waters of the waterfall.
After the boat docked at the edge of the lake, our journey continued with a short, authentic jungle trek. Walking over exposed tree roots and mossy rocks, we were immediately cooled by the dense forest shade and the fine mist drifting from the nearby cascades. The uphill hike, lasting roughly thirty minutes, wound past a series of smaller cascades, each tumbling gracefully into crystal-clear natural pools framed by vibrant green moss, delicate ferns, and towering ancient trees.
The water at Khuối Nhi cascades down multiple distinct tiers, stretching over three kilometers from the upper mountain peak all the way down to the lake below. For generations, visitors have likened its gentle, white-water flow to a fairy’s flowing locks of hair cascading amidst the vast, untamed wilderness.
While the majority of visitors choose to linger at the first inviting pool they encounter along the trail, the true treasures of the site lie further upstream. Higher up the path, broader and remarkably clear pools sit quietly beneath the steepest drops as the surrounding forest canopy closes in overhead. These upper cascades are typically less crowded, offering pristine, icy-clear water and an even deeper connection to nature.
For those prepared for the journey, packing a swimsuit is highly recommended. While dipping tired feet into the water provides immediate relief, taking a full plunge into the refreshing mountain pools offers an entirely revitalizing experience. Adventurous travelers often rent life jackets and small paddleboats to navigate the deeper pools or venture directly behind the tumbling curtains of the waterfall. Beyond swimming, visitors frequently gather along the banks to enjoy quiet picnics, photograph the layered cascades and surrounding forest, or simply absorb the naturally air-conditioned microclimate during the heat of the day.
Choosing to forgo a full swim, I instead opted to submerge my tired legs into the cool water and allow the tiny, playful fish to perform their favorite task. Nibbling gently at my skin, they provided a completely natural fish massage therapy while I sat quietly, listening to the calls of hidden birds, watching colorful butterflies flutter by, and scanning the towering ancient trees in the hope of spotting rare langurs.
After spending a few peaceful hours in a setting that closely resembled an earthly paradise, we returned to the boat to explore other highlights of the sprawling lake. Our itinerary included passing the striking Cọc Vài rock pillar, the cascading Mạ Waterfall, and a series of quiet, scenic coves.
Watching the sun set over the lake proved to be a deeply moving experience for someone accustomed to living and working amid the high-rise buildings of the city. Sadly, this restorative break from the relentless hustle and bustle of daily life was far too brief.
According to my boatman, the ideal times of year to visit Khuối Nhi and the Na Hang-Lâm Bình Ecological Lake are during the transitional periods from March to May and September to November. During these months, the weather is consistently pleasant, the water remains remarkably clear, and boat operations run reliably.
Although my recent trip fell outside of this optimal window, the unmatched beauty of the region means one thing with absolute certainty: I must return in the future.
